Mention Hokkaido to a naturalist and usually the first thing to come to mind are the red-crowned crane spectacle seen each winter on the lowland marshes and fields in the SE of the island. The second is usually the Stellar’s eagles that return each winter to feed from the vast ice shelves that form off the shore.

If pushed further, the third gold wildlife experience is glimpsing the Blakiston’s Fish Owl, one of the rarest and THE largest owl in the world. With a wingspan of nearly 2m and a standing height of around 70 cm, they really are huge.

I have long wanted, like many bird enthusiasts, to see one in the wild so, as we planned our family trip to Hokkaido for a week in the summer of 2023, I just had to try and see one.

After some research, it turned out that many stay at a local inn in the small fishing town of Rasusu on the Shiretoku peninsula (Washi-no-Yado)- an inn that has for years spotlit a patch of river in front of the inn where the owls come down to feed on the fish in pools there. As my tiem was limited, I decided this was probably my best bet at seeing one. My wife called them up and booked me a room for one night. It was set.

Summer arrived and before we knew it, we were up in Hokkaido searching for Siberian Rubythroats and harlequin ducks. I will post separately on the full trip. And before I knew it, I was driving over the mountain pass to stay one night at the owl inn. On arrival I checked in to a very basic room of dubious smell and headed down to dinner. I sat and worked my way through a very nice Japanese meal and then swiftly retreated to the room to get ready fort he night ahead.

Naturally, once night falls, you can’t really leave your room to avoid disturbing the birds. It was incredibly hot and humid in my room, a first floor 10 tatami mat room, with little else than a window. That window was open, the room light was off and I was set up for a long wait.

I waited from 7 pm until 1:25 am and finally, out of thin air, a giant owl flew down and landed on top of a post metres from my window. I froze. Our eyes met. The owl looked at me, wondering whether I was a threat or not. It was huge. I felt as if I were gazing upon a mythical beast, a creature of legends. And I was. After a few minutes, the owl felt comfortable enough to swoop down to the river and start fishing. It sat next to the pools, observing any movements, ready to pounce. Now, for all the grace the bird exudes in its flight, it lacks in its hunting. Jump in and grab. Once caught, clamber out and eat. And repeat.

I couldn’t believe what I was watching though. However clumsy, this was a magic, life-affirming moment. Finally I was watching a bird I had dreamed of one day seeing.

This beast of a bird continued to feed for at least ten minutes at which point it flew further down the river to perch on a branch overhanging the water. This is when owl number 2 flies in and does exactly the same thing in front of me giving me another 20 minutes of awesome wildlife moments.

I have included a few photos below that hopefully convey even an ounce of the magic seeing this species involves. It was tough for photography working with an albeit lit up area of river but relatively far away. ISOs were definitely up high.

If you are ever lucky enough to visit Hokkaido, make time for these giants.